canon 6d2 raw wont upload into lightroom 6

Afterwards we've published our series on recommended settings for Nikon D600 / D610 and D800 / D800E DSLRs, nosotros received a lot of requests from our readers to provide similar information for Catechism and Sony cameras. And so, in this article, we volition cover the Catechism 6D and how we recommend setting up its menu. Especially for first-time Canon shooters, the Canon 6D'southward menu can be very confusing, only this guide is a great starting point if yous don't know which settings to use.

Earlier going into the camera menu, let'due south get-go get started on the outside controls. The Canon 6D has a lot of menu options, merely in that location are some things that you tin only control with the external controls. In add-on, fifty-fifty if carte du jour settings provide options to modify particular settings, using external buttons / controls is simply faster.

Autofocus, Drive Modes and Metering

The Canon 6D has a very unproblematic and uncluttered front end, with a single programmable push button that is by default used for exposure preview. The top of the camera, however, has a number of buttons that make it easy and user-friendly to switch betwixt different photographic camera modes. Hither they are, to the right of the wink hotshoe:

Let's go through each of these one by 1. Later on you press the AF push button, the top LCD of the photographic camera will only display the currently fix autofocus style. In social club to toggle betwixt different autofocus modes, you either rotate the top dial, or the round punch on the dorsum of the camera. This volition make the camera go betwixt "I Shot", "AI Focus" and "AI Servo" modes. I won't go into also much item near each focus mode, since it is all explained in detail in this article that I wrote a while ago. Hither is a quick recap:

One Shot – is used only for stationary subjects that do not move. When you half-printing the shutter push button, autofocus locks on the subject field and if the subject area moves, the focus will non change, resulting in a blurry film. Merely use this mode for photographing stationary subjects (landscapes, architecture, etc).
AI Focus – this manner is a combination of both One Shot and AI Servo (beneath) modes in ane setting. The camera evaluates the subject field/scene and automatically switches between the above 2 modes depending on what you are photographing.
AI Servo – this setting is used for photographing moving subjects. When you lot half-printing the shutter button and your subject moves, the photographic camera will re-learn focus. I unremarkably continue my camera in AI Servo autofocus fashion when photographing people, especially my kids running effectually.

If you don't know where to start, keep the setting on AI Focus, which volition permit the camera decide on how to focus in unlike situations.

The second "DRIVE" button is used to switch between different camera bulldoze modes such as Single, Continuous, Single Silent, Continuous Silent, ten second Self-Timer / Remote Control and ii second Cocky-Timer / Remote Control. Here is a quick rundown of these drive modes:

Single Bulldoze – pressing the shutter release push button will only fire ane shot. If you go along to hold, zippo volition happen.
Continuous Drive – pressing and holding the shutter release button will continuously burn down the camera at a speed of 4.5 frames per 2d.
Silent Single Bulldoze – similar to the first setting, but the mirror is raised slower for less noise.
Silent Continuous Drive – similar to the 2d setting, but the mirror is raised slower for less noise when firing continuously.
ten second Self-Timer / Remote Control – after you press the shutter release push or appoint a remote trigger, the camera waits for 10 seconds before taking a picture.
2 second Self-Timer / Remote Control – like as higher up, except the wait time is reduced to 2 seconds.

Unless y'all are planning to photograph action (sports, wildlife, etc), keep the camera in either Single Bulldoze or Silent Single Drive mode. Personally, I like the Silent Single Drive way compared to the Single Drive way – the combination of the mirror and shutter sounds is very damp, which is nice.

Next we have the ISO push button for changing betwixt dissimilar ISO sensitivity levels. Once you press the ISO button, rotating the top or rear dials will toggle between Automobile ISO and regular ISO levels like 100, 200, 400, etc. all the way to ISO 25,600. Personally, I am a fan of the Auto ISO setting, equally it automatically selects the right ISO for me depending on the brightness of the scene. If you are a beginner, I recommend using the Auto ISO setting, the beliefs of which can be fine-tuned in the camera menu (as explained in particular farther downwards beneath).

The quaternary button from left is used for switching between different metering modes such as Evaluative, Partial, Center-Weighted Boilerplate and Spot. Once again, I won't go over each manner in particular, every bit you can read my Camera Metering Modes article, where each metering way is covered in detail. If yous do not know where to start, keep your metering mode in the default "Evaluative" style, which is the one that looks like an middle.

The last push button is used to calorie-free up the top LCD of the photographic camera, which can be useful when photographing in night.

Camera Shooting Manner Dial

On the top left side of the photographic camera you will observe a camera shooting mode dial (oft referred to every bit the "PASM" dial). I accept my dial set to "Av" (Aperture Priority Way) 90% of the time, because the camera does a great task in giving me good exposures. Once you go to know the camera better, I would recommend to explore the "C1" / "C2" settings (more on this below under Setup Menu), because they could save you fourth dimension when switching between different shooting environments (say when switching between photographing landscapes to running kids).

Some situations, such every bit when photographing panoramas or using off-camera flash phone call for using the Transmission (Grand) mode, but I would only recommend to use this mode when you get comfortable with the exposure triangle.

Back Buttons

The Canon 6D has a number of buttons on the dorsum of the camera that also serve particular needs. To the height correct of the camera, you lot can find three buttons: AF-ON, AE Lock (Asterisk) and AF Area Way. The AF-ON button can be used in conjunction with the Custom Functions (see below) for "back-button AF" that yous can use for the focusing and recomposing.

The AE Lock push button is used to lock the exposure, which can be useful for keeping the exposure consistent between shots or when using the to a higher place-mentioned focus and recompose technique.

The terminal AF Area Manner push is used for selecting a particular focus point. When you press this button once, the top LCD will display "SEL [ ]", which allows switching between different focus points in the viewfinder, or switching to dynamic focusing / automatic choice (with all focus points activated). If you look through the viewfinder and rotate the rear dial, you will see the focus points go vertically from top to bottom and vice versa. If you rotate the summit dial, the focus points volition switch horizontally from left to right and vice versa. Personally, I do not like the fact that I accept to press a button to activate focus points, so I ever use the multi-controller instead, as explained in detail below.

There is one more button on the back of the camera that tin can exist quite handy for making quick adjustments to the camera and that's the "Q" button that is located to the correct of the magnifying drinking glass and playback buttons. I dear this button, considering it serves as a shortcut to become to the most of import settings without having to dig through the many menu items. It gives you lot access to the exposure triangle, exposure and wink exposure bounty, WiFi, picture styles, white residual + white remainder shift, auto lighting optimizer, custom controls, AF functioning, AF signal selection, drive mode, metering way and paradigm size / quality settings. So this button is a great shortcut to seeing a summary of all settings on the photographic camera that are currently applied. From here, you tin override the top buttons easily by but using the multi-controller on the dorsum of the camera.

Let'due south go through the photographic camera Bill of fare settings now.

Camera Menu ane

Here are the settings I use for Camera Menu i, with explanations:

Image Quality: RAW – I always recommend to shoot in RAW format. As explained in my RAW versus JPEG article, there is a huge divergence between RAW and JPEG. With RAW, y'all also do not accept to worry about other camera settings such as moving-picture show styles, white balance and lighting optimizer, because yous can modify those in mail-processing.
Beep: Disable – get out this disabled, since the photographic camera volition beep every time focus is achieved, which is annoying.
Release shutter without card: OFF / Disable – yous exercise not desire the camera to fire without a memory card, in case you forget to insert one.
Image review: 2 sec – I leave this at the default two seconds. After you lot take an image, it volition be shown on the rear LCD for two seconds. If you want to preserve the battery life, you can turn this off likewise.

Camera Menu ii

Lens abnormality correction:
- Peripheral illumin.: Disable
- Chromatic aberration: Disable
I ordinarily leave both disabled, because lens corrections are only relevant to JPEG images. If you are a JPEG shooter, leaving these on volition reduce vignetting and chromatic abnormality.
External Speedlite control: default – get out this at default, unless yous want to modify wink beliefs. Some settings will non work unless yous attach a compatible flash unit.
Mirror lockup: OFF – unless you want to reduce vibrations from the photographic camera when the mirror is raised (when shooting at very low shutter speeds on a tripod), go out this turned off. When mirror lockup is on, pressing the shutter release or firing the camera with a remote will raise the mirror and the second time you trigger the shutter will beginning the exposure, then lower the mirror at the end of the exposure.

Camera Menu three

Expo.comp./AEB: 0 – this is for setting exposure bounty or exposure bracketing. I would not carp with setting exposure compensation through the carte, since you lot tin practice information technology much quicker with the big rotary punch on the dorsum of the camera
ISO speed settings:
- ISO speed: Machine – as explained earlier, I similar to use the Auto ISO feature, since I practice not have to worry about the exposure.
- ISO speed range: 100-25600 – this setting affects what you are able to see when changing ISO through the ISO button or through the Quick menu. I desire to keep the unabridged range for ISO option, so I go out it at 100-25600 range.
- Machine ISO range: 100-6400 – at present this setting is particularly useful when shooting in "Auto ISO" style. I am not comfy with noise above ISO 6400 on the 6D, then I keep the maximum range limited to ISO 6400.
- Min. shutter spd.: Auto – with the "Auto" setting, the camera volition automatically arrange the shutter speed of the photographic camera to the current focal length of the lens. When using the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art, I noticed that the camera would toggle between one/twoscore and 1/50th of a second. For steady easily and skilful posture, this might exist sufficient. However, if you have shaky hands, then the "Auto" setting might not do justice to keep y'all away from camera shake. If you notice mistiness in your images, I would change this from "Machine" to something faster than the focal length of the lens. For example, for the aforementioned Sigma 50mm lens, setting the minimum shutter speed to 1/60 might be better than i/40 or one/50th of a second. And if y'all fix it to 1/125, it volition exist plenty even for shaky hands. Unfortunately, different Nikon, Catechism does non permit for automatic "faster" or "slower" compensations and y'all are limited to i/250 shutter speed maximum. This is a deal breaker for sports and wildlife photographers, considering they take no options for fast shutter speeds similar i/2000. For those detail situations, y'all will probably exist better off turning Auto ISO off.
Auto Lighting Optimizer: OFF – ALO settings are only applicative to JPEG images and I commonly keep them turned off.
White residue: AWB – Just like ALO, white balance setting besides does not matter, every bit y'all can adjust it subsequently in mail service-processing.
Custom White Balance – unless you have a greyness card to ready custom white balance, skip this setting.
WB Shift/Bkt.: 0,0/±0 – don't mess with this unless you know what you lot are doing.
Color space: Adobe RGB – although color space does non matter for RAW images, Adobe RGB gives a slightly more accurate histogram to make up one's mind the correct exposure (since the camera shows histogram based on photographic camera-rendered JPEG prototype, even if yous shoot exclusively in RAW).

Camera Menu four

Picture Style: Standard – does not matter for shooting RAW images. I prepare mine to "Standard" and apply the Standard camera profile in Lightroom for consistency. For more than details most this, cheque out my article "how to get accurate Canon colors."
Long exp. racket reduction: OFF – I leave this off, just you might want to plow information technology on if you are planning to shoot very long exposures such as when doing astrophotography.
High ISO speed NR: OFF – some other one I leave off, equally it only affects JPEG images.
Highlight tone priority: OFF – dissimilar Automobile Lighting Optimizer (ALO), Highlight tone priority does affect RAW data, since information technology actually underexposes an image to recover highlights. Unless y'all shoot JPEG, instead of letting the photographic camera underexpose images with HTP to keep highlight details, I would recommend to properly expose images and even slightly over-expose, then recover the information in mail. This technique is known every bit "Exposing to the right" and it gives you better results, especially when dealing with noise.
Grit Delete Data – this is used for removing dust in images if you have dust particles on the image sensor. I never apply this feature, since I prefer cleaning the camera sensor instead.
Multiple exposure: Disable – this is used for creative photography when stacking photos on top of each other.
HDR Style: Disable HDR – this is automatically disabled when you choose RAW format.

Alive View Menu one and 2

Live View settings practise not affect images, so I usually leave them at default settings.

Movie Bill of fare one and 2

If you lot have the Live View switch on the back of the camera to "Picture" manner (carmine photographic camera), instead of the above Live View menus y'all will see two movie menus. I don't shoot video, and so these are besides set to default settings.

Playback Carte ane and 2

Playback menus are used for altering images afterward they are captured. I normally do not mess with these and exit the settings in Menu 1 and ii at default. The but setting I do change is in Playback Menu two – Image spring with rotary dial. I personally do not like the fact that the images jump by x by default when rotating the top punch, so I set up it to "Display images one by one" instead. This fashion, whether I turn the top or the rear dials, both volition display images one by one without skipping.

Playback Menu three

The playback menu three has some of import settings that I oft use:

Highlight alert: Enable – this will prove the "blinkies" when in that location is overexposure / loss of highlight information.
AF point disp. Enable – when displaying images, I want to see where the focus point was.
Playback grid: Off – information technology is nice to see a grid in the viewfinder, merely I don't desire to see it after the image is captured.
Histogram disp: Brightness – if yous desire to see a histogram for each colour aqueduct, pick RGB.
Motion-picture show play count: Rec time.
Magnificatn (apx): Bodily size – this allows me to see 100% crop when I press the magnification button when playing back images.
Ctrl over HDMI: Disable.

Setup Menu 1

Select folder – you can use an existing binder or create a new one where photos will exist stored.
File numbering: Continuous – I desire the camera to increment file numbers fifty-fifty if I modify the memory card.
Automobile rotate: On (eye setting) – rotating vertical images in mural view makes them appear much smaller. I prefer the camera to write the orientation to images, only not actually rotate them when displaying.
Format card – used for formatting the inserted retention card.

Setup Menu 2

Motorcar power off: 1 min – I leave information technology at one minute to plow off the camera when it is not in employ.
LCD brightness: Heart – default is good, although y'all might want to increment or decrease effulgence depending on shooting conditions.
LCD off/on btn: Remains on – this is used for displaying the information screen. I don't use the data screen, so the setting is not important.
Date/Time/Zone: make sure to keep the date and time zone settings accurate.
Language: English.
GPS: Disable – I enable GPS when traveling and turn it off if I demand to preserve battery life. It is a smashing feature that I wish all other cameras had!

Setup Menu 3

Video system: NTSC.
Feature guide: Enable.
INFO push button brandish options: All checked – proficient for looking at important camera settings and the level works pretty well for shooting on a tripod.
Wi-Fi: Disable – keep this disabled to preserve battery life and but enable when yous need to transmit images or control the camera remotely.
Wi-Fi function – Wi-Fi-specific functions.

Setup Menu iv

Sensor cleaning:
- Auto cleaning: Enable – the camera will shake off dust when turned on or off.
- Make clean now – to make clean the sensor at present.
- Make clean manually – this is different than the above options, since information technology is used for manually cleaning the sensor. The mirror will lock upward and you tin can continue to cleaning the sensor.
Bombardment info. – shows battery level.
Certification Logo Display – displays certification logos.
Custom shooting mode (C1, C2) – there are ii C1 and C2 setting banks on the shooting mode dial equally previously covered. Once you lot set appropriate settings for a given scenario, yous can relieve them in these two modes.
- Register settings – this volition permit to relieve your current settings to either C1 or C2 shooting mode. In one case saved, all you accept to do is switch to the appropriate mode and the settings will exist retrieved. I usually save two different scenarios – one for landscapes and one for people. For C1 (landscapes), I have Automobile ISO turned off, set to ISO 100. Exposure style is set to Manual (M). AF mode is set to One Shot. For C2 (people), I keep Machine ISO on, with exposure mode set to Aperture Priority (Av) and AF mode set to AI Focus.
- Articulate settings – used to articulate the above-mentioned modes and revert to defaults.
- Auto update fix.: Disable – I do not want the camera to automatically save adjustments in C1 or C2 modes. This way, if I change a setting, it is but a temporary change. If I need to make a permanent change, I go to "Register settings" menu above.
Make clean all camera settings – this will reset everything on the photographic camera and revert to manufacturing plant defaults.
Copyright information – I always put my name and copyright details when I first setup the camera.
Camera firmware ver – displays current camera firmware.

Custom Functions I: Exposure

Custom Functions bill of fare is used to fine tune the many parameters of the photographic camera. Some of them are very of import and should non be messed with, while others arrive easier to use the camera. Let's get through each one of them, i by one.

Exposure level increments: ane/three stop – this will permit adjusting the exposure in ane/3 or 1/2 increments. I adopt ane/3 increments.
ISO speed setting increments: 1/3 stop – same hither for ISO.
Bracketing auto cancel: On – if you turn bracketing on, the setting will not be permanent – it will turn itself off when you plough off the camera.
Bracketing sequence: -, 0, + – I prefer bracketing in this order.
Number of bracketed shots: 3 shots – depends on how you bracket. I usually get between iii and 5 shots.
Safe shift: Shutter speed / Aperture – used when the camera maxes out in Aperture Priority (Av) or Shutter Priority (Idiot box) modes. For example, if the exposure is too brilliant and the photographic camera is also maxed out at 1/4000 shutter speed, with this setting the camera will end downward the aperture to residuum out the exposure.

Custom Functions Ii: Autofocus

Tracking sensitivity: 0 – useful for tracking moving subjects in AI Servo mode. Motility the slider towards Locked on to continue focus on the subject and towards Responsive to quickly switch between subjects. I leave it at 0.
Accel./decel. tracking: 0 – leave this at 0. This setting is used for making quicker focus adjustments to subject area tracking.
AI Servo 1st image priority: Middle – if set to Release, the camera will fire even if the subject area is not in focus. If prepare to Focus, the camera will not burn down until the subject is in focus. The Centre setting is a combination of the ii and the camera volition try to focus as quickly equally possible earlier taking the shot.
AI Servo 2nd paradigm priority: Middle – for the second and other shots in the sequence, the camera tin can be set either to "Speed" or to "Focus". In "Speed" mode, the camera will fire continuously, whether the subject is in focus or not. In "Focus" fashion, the camera volition merely burn if the subject is in focus.
AF-aid beam firing: IR AF assistance axle only – if you have an external flash unit, this setting allows setting the type of AF assist beam to fire, if it has ane. Since infrared is more accurate than a regular lamp, I prefer to keep it on IR AF assist.
Lens bulldoze when AF incommunicable: Go on focus search – if focus cannot be achieved, the camera can continue searching or terminate. I prefer to permit the camera go along to search.
Orientation linked AF point: Aforementioned for both vertic./horiz. – you can prepare dissimilar autofocus points depending on the orientation of the camera. I ready this to be the same.
Superimposed display: On – I want AF points to light up in red when I half-printing the shutter push or press AF-ON, and so I leave this at "On".
AF Microadjustment: Disable – unless you want to specifically adjust stage detection autofocus, exercise non touch this setting. If yous want to brand AF adjustments, read my detailed commodity on calibrating lenses.

Custom Functions III: Operation/Others

Dial management during Tv/Av: Normal – I leave this at normal, only if you want to flip the direction of dials, y'all can set it to "Reverse management".
Focusing Screen: Eg – A Ii – default, just applicative if yous are using an optional focusing screen.
Multi function lock: Quick Control Dial – this controls what gets locked when the Lock switch on the dorsum of the camera is used. I get out this on the default Quick Control punch.
Warnings ! in viewfinder: When monochrome prepare, When WB is corrected – shows an exclamation mark in the viewfinder if these conditions are met.
Custom Controls – this is one of the most important menus in the camera, as information technology allows customizing function button beliefs. Allow's go through each one by 1:
- Shutter Release: AE Lock – if you want to switch to back-button focusing / focus and recompose technique, then change this to either "Metering commencement" or "AE lock". I proceed mine at AE lock to only lock the exposure when I half-press the shutter release. To focus, use the AF-ON push on the back of the camera.
- AF-ON push: Metering and AF commencement – I desire to employ the rear AF-ON push button to focus, so I keep it at this setting.
- AE Lock button: AE lock/FE lock – you tin alter the behavior of the AE Lock (Asterisk) push button also. Some people prefer to have the AE lock button serve equally the AF-ON push. You lot can do that by changing the fashion to "Metering and AF outset".
- DOF preview button: Depth-of-field preview – I don't particularly use this button, so I go out it at its default setting.
- Lens AF cease button: AF terminate – controls the behavior of the lens AF cease push button.
- Set button: OFF – I only desire to use the center "Set" button to brand changes and access card items, and then I leave it off. Some people like to change it to "Carte du jour" for accessing the menu, but I don't mind pressing the Menu button to the left of the viewfinder.
- Main Dial: Aperture setting in Grand fashion – you can control the behavior of the main dial on the top of the camera in Transmission mode to either change the Shutter speed (default) or Aperture. I adopt the acme dial to change aperture and the rear dial to change the shutter speed. It is a personal preference though!
- Quick Control Dial: Shutter Speed setting in Thousand mode – with the higher up change, you demand to set this ane to control the shutter speed.
- Multi-controller: AF point direct pick – some other very important setting for me. If you keep the default setting (OFF), you will not be able to make quick adjustments to focus points by using the multi-controller on the back. With AF indicate straight selection enabled, yous simply press any side of the multi-controller and the focus signal will immediately move in that location. Very useful, something that should have been the default!

I promise you lot found this article useful. Again, these are settings that work for me and they might not necessarily suit your needs. It is best that you explore your camera and learn about each setting as much as y'all can in order to take advantage of all the available features and customizations!

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Source: https://photographylife.com/recommended-canon-6d-settings